PRESERVED LEMONS

Lemons preserved in salt is a condiment used in North African cooking. A piece of preserved lemon skin chopped into a dressing will enliven a grain or leaf salad, pairs well with root vegetables, parsley and fish dishes, and adds complexity – a sweet-sourness - to Moroccan tagines and a slow cooked braise, especially lamb. Combined with butter and chopped parsley then spread under chicken breast skin will take your roast to next level mwah tastiness. Keep the left-over brine to make salad dressings, or to create a great martini or Bloody Mary.

Preserved lemons are a simple and effective way to make the most the winter’s bounty. All you need is good non-iodised salt like sea salt or Kosher salt. The salted lemon juices preserve and soften the peel, the sourness mellows as flavours become layered. Adding some warm noted spices like cinnamon, coriander seeds, peppercorns or cardamom pods is optional, but gives extra flavour depth.

HOW TO MAKE PRESERVED LEMONS

For 1.2kg lemons (about 12) you’ll need:

A 1 litre jar, or 2 x 500ml wide-neck jars

300g sea salt or Kosher salt

1 tablespoon coriander or cardamom pods, gently crushed

2 cinnamon sticks

4 bay leaves or lemon leaves, washed and dried

2 teaspoons black or pink peppercorns

extra lemons to juice (about 6)

1. You can use any variety of lemons (limes also work well). Meyer lemons tend to mature more quickly due to thin skins. Choose ripe, firm, unblemished lemons that haven’t been sprayed. Wash well and pat dry.

2. It is best to use wide neck jars with a tight-fitting lid. As a guide, five to six lemons will fit into a 500ml glass jar. Wash and sterilise as many jars as required.

3. Cut the lemons lengthways ¾ of the way down into quarters, leaving them attached at one end. Sprinkle a teaspoon of salt in the centre of each lemon to coat the cut surfaces, then reshape the fruit.

4. Cover the base of jar with a thin layer of salt. Arrange lemons in the jar, sprinkle each with a layer of salt and the spices chosen, such as lightly crushed coriander seeds or cardamom pods. Press lemons down with a weight like a pestle or end of rolling pin, to release juices and making sure lemons are packed together firmly in jar.

5. If using, place cinnamon sticks, or bay or lemon leaves down the side of jar.

6. Squeeze extra lemons and pour over enough juice until it completely covers everything. Wipe neck of jar with a clean sterilised cloth. Close the lid tightly.

7. Store the jar of lemons to mature in a cool dark place for at least a month, before using. The rinds should be tender to the bite when tested. After opening, store in the refrigerator. The lemons will keep for up to a year.

8. OPTIONAL: To prevent any possible spoilage as sometimes white mould will appear on top if the lemons are not completely covered (although harmless and the top damaged layer can be removed), Greg Malouf suggests in his book ‘Arabesque’ to heat the jars in a water bath before storing. To do this, place a piece of carboard or small cloth (to stop the jar/s vibrating) on the bottom of a saucepan large enough to hold jar/s. He says “Add warm (not boiling) water to cover the jar completely and slowly bring it to the boil. Boil for 6 minutes then remove from the heat. Gently lift the jar from the pot.”

9. Add a ray of lemon yellow brightness and excitement to your meals.

Recipe by Fiona Hammond, August 2025